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My G35 is completely a track car now and has a full 6 point roll cage welded in it. There was 2 areas though that I have wanted to modify, and finally decided to fix them.

The front of the roll cage did not have a dash bar, and instead tied into the large front brace that is installed from the factory. I removed the large factory front brace and installed a dash bar onto the roll cage. This also meant that the mounting points for the steering assembly had to be modified, since they were attached to the large factory front brace. I also had to modify the instrument cluster mounting. Luckily I will not be using the factory dash any longer, but now I have a lot of wiring to remove from all deleted parts (airbags, radio, ac/heater, etc).

This picture is when I was test fitting the new dash bar. The large factory bar is still in place... I need to take a picture of the deleted factory bar and the new dash bar fully welded in.



The second area was that required modification was in the rear. I wanted to include an x-brace between the 2 rear support bars to increase the cage strength and the rear rigidity.

The 6MT is installed and fully functional, but I had to make a larger hole for the shifter since the 6MT is a little longer. The hole was a very rough (as you can see in my title image), so I cleaned up the cuts to make them straight and smoothed all the edges (I forgot to take a picture of the cleaned up hole). I then made a cardboard template for a base plate so I could install the rubber shifter cover from the 6MT. I transferred the cardboard template to a piece of steel, cut it out, bent and welded it. It now installed on the transmission tunnel with 4 bolts, allows easy access to the top of the transmission, and will keep out most of the air/water from under the car.

Today I finished all rear suspension work. I too a picture to show the 4 different bushings that were replaced on each rear knuckle. Bushings 1-3 are not very difficult, but bushing 4 is in a very awkward location and it is difficult to position it in the press. I had to weld a small fixture to hold the knuckle in the press. I'm glad that job is finished!

Today I completely finished the driver side of the rear suspension and also removed the passenger side rear knuckle to finish tomorrow. I changed the OEM eccentric bolts that allow small adjustment to the rear suspension settings to bolts that lock out the eccentric bolt adjustments. You can see the bolts side by side in the title image. They exist in 2 places on each side and are the "cam" type bolts that rotate off center. My entire suspension is now fully adjustable, each arm has adjustments, so these bolts are no longer needed.

The bolt kit is very simple, it uses square aluminum spacers (on each side of the bolt) that fit inside the small indentation on the subframe. The square spacers fit tightly and no longer rotate, so all adjustments will be done by the SPL suspension arms. This will prevent the OEM eccentric bolts from changing settings if a large bump or pothole is hit, and makes fine tuning the alignment very predictable.

Here you can see the the lock out bolt installed and part of the SPL adjustable arm.

Today I started to work on the rear knuckles. I purchased SPL monoball spherical bushings to replace all 4 bushings on the rear knuckles. They are supposed to make the car much tighter in the rear. Since I am working on the rear, I decided to replace the rear wheel bushings as well.

Here you can see one of the old bushings I pressed out of the rear knuckle. Next to it is the new SPL monoball bearing. It is aluminum. 3 out of the 4 bushings are not very difficult to replace, but one bushing is very difficult to remove!


This is the new wheel bearing pressed on the old wheel hub.